How do I Choose?

Since pedal kayaks are a fairly new technological inovation alot of people are lost as to how to choose the correct model. Here we compile a list of factors and things to go through to help you choose.

Push Pedals VS Rotational Pedals

Push pedals are easy to use, the motion is simple, by just pushing the pedals in you get propulsion. However, pushing pedals for a long time can result in adverse health effects on your back just like regular kayaks since you are not fully extending the legs. Some of the most common side effects of pushing forward pedals include leg and foot cramps, muscle injuries, back pain and early fatigue especially in the joints of your legs and feet. For the rotational pedals, the legs and feet move fully resembling walking thus resulting in less stress on your legs, feet and joints.

Considering the fact that these two systems are human driven, they are supposed to lose the least energy possible during exertion. An average person can only provide around 0.25 horsepower in an unsustainable manner.

For the rotational pedals, the user is able to engage uninterrupted motion; meaning that the generated energy is not lost rather it is preserved. In rotational drive pedals, the pedals are an efficient means of the body transmitting power to the propeller with minimal energy loss.

Lets now consider that with push pedal driven kayaks, most of the body’s generated energy is lost; meaning that the driver losses a lot of energy especially while trying to accelerate. Continuous loss of energy with every pedal usually results in early fatigue and a less efficient system.

Overall the difference between the two is pronounced. A rotational pedal driven kayaks motion mechanism involves a rotational propeller that is continuous and thus wastes little body energy, while the push pedal kayak combines push pedals with two side moving flaps thus making it the least mechanically efficient. There are many experts that have argued that the push pedals system is as efficient as the rotational pedals however comparing the two mechanically, rotational pedal driven kayaks are more efficient.

Hull Size and Shape

A very important factor when it comes to stability for pedal kayaks is the hull size.

Most kayak fishers that are beginners and starting to pick up the sport may be uncertain on the water. its common that they don’t understand that a kayak that DOES NOT have a wide flat bottom and you can use to lean side to side could actually be a large advantage and INCREASE the kayaks stability in rough waters not decrease it. We recommend you choose hull size dependant on the type of waters you will be using the kayak for.

A flat, round shape of the hull often used in agile kayaks for small rivers makes the kayak more maneuverable though provides less tracking.

Brand Rankings

When it comes to pedal kayaks there are a few name brands that stick out. Over the years we have seen that the kayak market is getting flooded with more and more brand names though the pedal kayak market continues to stay somewhat unsaturated. Some brand makers have perfected the system while some continue to strive to achieve the best pedalling experience.

The Two brands that continue to stick out above the others are:

Hobie Kayak- Mirage Brand
Hobie kayaks have been making high quality products for years and that brand reputation has carried on to their pedal kayak offerings. Known as some of the most reliable pedal kayaks Their offerings include many different versions which are updated on a somewhat regular basis to include the latest in technology. Their main differentiation is the mirage drive technology they have implemented to improve pedalling performance. This works in a push manner where your feet push pedals inwards and the mechanism moves flippers that cross over each other displacing water and propelling the kayak.

Pros – Can manuever well in shallow water with the pedal system.
– The fins can be folded up against the hull when launching or within shallow water.
Cons – Will not track very well because it does not have a rudder.
– Back and forth motion can be hard on the knees and patela area.
– No reverse function.

Native Watercraft- Propel Brand
The Propel brand has been around for about the same time as the Mirage brand, it sits about on par with the Hobie kayaks though the Hobie kayaks are larger in the number of different models they offer. The propel Has the propel pedal drive system which uses a propeller to push the kayak forward. A great extra feature is that you can also go backwards in the kayak!

Pros – Tracks well within any configuration.
– Can be used to pedal in reverse.
– The drive unit installed can be easily flipped out of the water while your in the boat and you can then continue on with a paddle. The point above makes launching the kayak easy. 
Cons – Needs about a foot of clearance to not hit the bottom of body of water.

Other factors to consider

Stability

There are primary and secondary forms of stability. Looking at the secondary point of stability it refers to which angle the boat will capsize at. With regards to this, v shapes can be the best for tracking and a good secondary point of stability however they are bad for the first point of stability. The best for primary stability can be the flat hull however they have bad marks for secondary stability which means the kayak will turn quicker but wont track well on a straight path and capsize in rough waters.

The increase in Primary stability from flat hulls can be great for very calm waters and be comfortable for beginners however when the waters shift to being rough this same primary stability can cause kayaks to capsize and tip over. For rough waters you would want to choose a stronger secondary stability.

“Primary and secondary stability:

Primary (sometimes called initial) stability describes how much a boat tips, or rocks back and forth when displaced from level by water movement or paddler weight shifts.

Secondary (final) stability describes how readily a boat capsizes. Primary stability is often a big concern to a beginner, while secondary stability matters more to experienced travelers who may frequent rougher waters. Primary stability increases as the boat’s volume moves away from the centerline. For example, catamarans offer high primary stability and little secondary stability, given that their volume is on either edge of the boat.” kayaking

Having a pedal kayak eliminates the added stability benefit of a paddle. The pedal positioning also makes a user take up less surface area for their weight and cause the slightest movement to shift weight to a portion of the kayak whereas for the paddle kayak when your feet are spread out your weight is spread throughout the kayak.

Speed

This debate have gone on for a long time. The consensus that you find is a large dependency on the actual driver. Whether the driver has a stronger upper body or lower body can have a huge differences. There are cases of paddlers leaving pedalers in the dust and vice versa. Looking at it mechanically and from a design perspective considering the fact that pedal kayaks are less stable in the water and the fact that they must be wider to enhance stability, they are likely to be slower. They also feature rudders for steering purposes; these rudders increase their friction within the water thus decreasing the kayak’s speed by an average of 10%. Also the added width makes them heavier, making them slower in the water. The above reasons make them put a lot more pressure on the user resulting in earlier fatigue. These kayaks are usually used for recreational purposes such as fishing and touring and not racing.

Through a survey of users the average speed of the Hobie Outback was found to be about 3.5 mph with about 6-8 mph top speed between 15-20 minutes.

As a comparison the Trident Prowler 13 which is a paddling kayak is reported to maintain a average speed of 4 mph

As a comparison a Mirage Adventure with a sail kit can achieve consistent speeds of about 15-20 mph with a wind rudder and sail kit

Longer kayaks make it much easier to get from point a to point b because of their longer hulls, usually a rule of thumb is the wider the hull of a kayak the slower the kayak will be. Alot of other factors can influence your kayaks speed including the hulls materials, fiberglass and kevlar and thermoformed plastic are better and make your kayak faster.

Tracking and Turning

In this section, we shall address how a pedal kayak is different from a paddle kayak in terms of tracking and turning. Considering the directional control of these two kayaks, the pedal driven kayak feels a little more unstable than the paddle driven one. It is for this reason the pedal kayaks hull must be built a bit wider to enhance stability while on the water. You will commonly see pedal kayaks being slightly wider and a bit bulkier. This is to try to make up for the stability issue. Although the pedal kayak is being propelled by one of your strongest body parts, your legs, the ability to steer is always more limited than the paddle driven kayak. A paddle gives the user ample ability to effectively control tracking and turning while propelling the kayak. Although pedal driven kayaks are equipped with a hand activated rudder steer stick, its operation in terms of tracking and turning is far less useful than in a paddle kayak.When comparing paddle kayaks to pedal kayaks, the paddles facilitate quicker and more efficient turning than the pedals. For instance, people using a pedal driven kayak usually cling to the sides of the kayak to keep it balanced unlike those in the paddle driven kayak who keep it balanced using their paddles on each side.

What makes the steering difficult on the pedal kayak compared to a paddle kayak is debatable, a rudder can only be so large at the bottom of the kayak and you can only dedicate so much effort to adjusting it. Also the effect of a paddle on the far side of a kayak is more pronounced in turning then in the centre bottom of the boat. With a paddle you can make sharp turns whereas with a pedal kayak and a rudder you may have to do some adjustments similar to what you would see on a boat. Not quite like the titanic trying to avoid an iceberg but the difference is pronounced!

The pedal kayaks steering rudders are controlled by your hand through a lever usually located in the cockpit of the kayak. A well know statistic is that rudders embedded on these pedal kayaks cut down the kayak’s speed by an average of 10% thus making it harder for the user to get to the top speed they desire. Last but not least, while using the pedal kayak on shallow waters or in reedy waters, the rudders are likely to get stuck in mud and obstacles or rake themselves on the reeds bringing you to a halt.

Transport

Getting a pedal driven kayak in the water can be hectic especially if you don’t have the man power to assist you. Their wide hull makes them heavier than the paddle kayaks.

Besides their wider hull, they are also equipped with steering rudders as well as a pedal drive attachment which adds up to its heavy weight. On top of that the rudder provides another protruding object that could cause problems if it were to get hooked on something. Their transport to and from your location to the beach can only be done by a big vehicle and not a simple roof rack on a small car. Upon reaching the beach, you may also need assistance to get it into the water.

Launching and Beaching

Launching and beaching for the pedal kayak is just like it is for any other kayak. It can be smoothly driven into the water. However, it is advisable for the user to carry a secondary propeller such as paddle in case the pedal system fails.

Use in Shallow Waters and Vegetation Rich Areas

Kayaks have the ability to take you anywhere you want to go but for pedal kayaks, visiting some areas especially shallow water areas and areas with sea weeds can be problematic. The reason behind this limitation is that shallow waters make the propellers prone to obstruction from mud and obstacles underneath the water.

Upon reaching shallow waters, you are advised to use a paddle rather than the pedal so as to ascertain that the underneath mechanisms are not destroyed or clogged. This makes them unusable for fishing in shallow waters and vegetation rich areas.

Whitewater

Pedal kayaks are not meant for white-water or fast running water navigation. They have minimal free-board which makes them easily filled with water from running water streams. Further, pedal driven kayaks’ are almost impossible to navigate in moving water since the re-positioned driver’s feet from the foot of the hull obstructs the ability to adequately balance and control the boat.

Fishing Considerations

It’s often argued that pedal kayaks are the best when it comes to fishing since they only utilise your legs for motion which keeps your hands free to fish! This also allows the user to pedal and fish at the same time. Although both hands are free, at times you might find yourself with just one hand free and the other holding onto the kayak’s deck or leaning on it to keep balance. However, fishing with a Pedal Kayak is a little more fun than using the paddle kayak since you can move along while fishing in comfort unlike with the paddle kayak. The only limitation of the Pedal Kayak is that is doesn’t have the reverse capability thus going backwards can be a bit of a hassle. This issue is solved if you choose a rotational pedal kayak.

Standing Up While Fishing

Standing up and fishing while in a pedal kayak can be achieved when you are sure that nothing will destabilize you. It is always advisable to remain seated while fishing however many kayaks advertise themselves as being great for stand up fishing. Although it’s argued that the Pedal Kayak is large enough to ensure stability even when standing, anything can cause you to lose balance and end up falling in the water.

Closing Words

We have discussed various attributes that make people choose a particular kayak. No matter what the reason of preferring a particular kayak, energy used to drive them should be considered. Our bodies are all we have and inflicting unnecessary stress on them can add up in the long run. Some kayaks can be more ergonomical and efficient than others and keep you from getting tired. With regards to the speed factor, it is debatable whether pedal kayaks are faster or slower than paddle kayaks but this can greatly depend on the users personal strengths and weaknesses, if you have chicken legs you may want to spring for the paddle kayak. There are many factors to consider when choosing your perfect pedal kayak, the best advice is always choose one that feels right for you and comfortable regardless of what someone tells you is the best or worst model.

1. Garmin Striker 4

Garmin’s Striker range is relatively new, being introduced by Garmin in 2016, and the Striker 4 is the base model. It is also the most affordable one, and it makes it one of the cheapest CHIRP sonar units you’ll find on the market, while still coming from a reputable manufacturer.

It has a 3.5” screen with a resolution of 480x320px. There’s a dual frequency CHIRP sonar feature, as mentioned earlier, which is limited to mid and high CHIRP. The transducer covers both 200 kHz with 15 degrees, as well as 77 kHz with 45 degrees. This gives you enough flexibility to be able to fish in both shallow waters, as well as deep ones. As far as depth goes, you can go for as much as 487m in freshwater, or 228m in saltwater. It is worth mentioning that the Striker 4 comes with a high-precision internal GPS. Garmin are pioneers in the navigation game, and the Striker 4 lives up to the expectations.

The Striker 4 has a few perks, such as the Fish Symbol ID. This is a function that analyzes the return results of the sonar, and displays fish icons for any returns that the sensor will interpret as fish. It also gives you the depth of each fish target. There is auto gain, to automatically filter any unwanted noise, and ultrascroll which lets you scan at higher boat speeds. You’ll still notice quality loss at speeds of over 40 miles per hour, but it is unlikely that you’ll be traveling at those speeds in a kayak.

The whole unit is IPX7 waterproof, so you should be safe with splashes of water, or even rain, and the backlit display gives you excellent readability, even under bright sunlight, which is something you will come to appreciate.

2. Lowrance HOOK-4x

Also a relatively new addition to the market, the HOOK series by Lowrance was introduced in the beginning of 2016. The entire series was designed to provide the basic and most necessary features of a fish finder, and they manage to do so. They’re fairly similar to the Elite series as well. The HOOK-4x is in the lower half of the series, and is a fish finder without any navigation.

The HOOK-4x comes with a 4.3” screen which has a resolution of 480 x 272 px. The 16-bit color TFT and 11-level backlight make sure that you can clearly distinguish everything on the display even in bright sunlight. As far as the sonar goes, this fish finder has a broadband CHIRP and DownScan. With the CHIRP sonar, you can go as far as 305m deep, and DownScan gives you 91m. Frequencies range from 83 kHz to 800 kHz, depending on whether you’re using CHIRP or DownScan, and depending on which cone angle you go for (they range from 20 degrees to 60 degrees).

The display is IPX7 waterproof, meaning it can withstand minor accidental water exposure, but there isn’t any guarantee, especially in saltwater. You might want to opt for a cover if necessary to keep water out, just to be on the safe side.

There are a few perks you get with the fish finder, such as DownScan Overlay, which combines the 2D CHIRP with DownScan to get you both the target separation and the great imaging. This gives you a very clear image of what’s below. There is also Advanced Signal Processing, which deals with noise rejection, and TrackBack, which lets you review the sonar feed.

When you combine everything, and add the price to the mix, you get a lot of bang for your buck. The HOOK-4x is a great all-round, entry-level fish finder.

3. Humminbird PirahnaMax 197c

The Humminbird PirahnaMax 197c is an excellent fish finder, mostly thanks to its precision sonar. Even though many of the models in the PirahnaMax series have been discontinued, the 197c DI is one of the improved models that are still up for grabs. It is a basic fish finder with Down Imaging technology, but it offers no navigation features, which might be its biggest downside.

The environment beneath your kayak will be as clear as day using this compact device. It is around 5.5”x4”, and it comes with a 320 x 240px 3.5” backlit display. There are 256 color hues, which enable you to get a very detailed picture on where the fish are biting. In addition, a gimbal mount makes the device much easier to operate due to the rotation and tilting options. You get a peak output of 1,600 watts, which is plenty.

There is a narrow beam, with a 16-degree cone, which has a 455 kHz frequency, and a wider one, with a 28 degree cone and a frequency of 200 kHz. The narrow beam is primarily made for sharp details of items that are beneath the boat, and the wider one lets you see more objects, albeit at a lower detail level. You can even use Down Imaging, which has a 74-degree beam and 455 kHz. There’s also a fish ID feature that distinguishes the fish in the water and marks them as such.

To sum things up, you get Down Imaging and a 256-color TFT screen, as well as all the other necessary bells and whistles of a basic fish finder, all for less than $200. This is tough to beat, and for anyone looking for a fairly basic tool, you should by all means go for it.

4. Raymarine Dragonfly 4 Pro

Raymarine is a fairly reputable brand as far as fish finders go. The Dragonfly 4 Pro started garnering attention as soon as it was introduced, and it has even gathered a award or two. Improvements over the previous model include buttons that are more clearly marked in comparison, a simpler 4-way direction button, vastly improved attachment mechanism, as well as a ball-and-socket design, which lets you rotate and swivel the entire unit as much as you want.

The 4.3” LCD display gives you 480 x 272px to work with, and the built-in optical bonding gives much brighter colors and better contrasts to the images, which greatly improves overall visibility, especially outdoors. It also means that you can view the image at various angles, which was something you could only find on models that were significantly more expensive some time ago.

You get a 50/200 kHz and 83/200 kHz dual channel CHIRP sonar, and you can use it in depths of up to 183m. The sonar is amazing, and you get an image with easy-to-read numerals that let you know details such as vessel speed and object depth, which can be quite helpful in certain situations.

The included GPS functionality is worth noting – it boasts a 50-channel GPS/chartplotter. You can plot up to 10,000 track points, 3,000 waypoints and up to 150 routes. You can even transfer them to another device using the built in SD card slot.  One more thing you won’t find on a lot of products is the integrated Wi-Fi. You can use it to connect to an app on a smartphone or a tablet, thus enabling any other anglers on board to take a look at the action in real time, without having to struggle to see the same display.

When all is said and done, the Dragonfly 4 Pro gives you a lot of functionality, and all of the built-in features are well made, with no skimping on features anywhere.

5. Garmin Echo 551DV Fish Finder

This is one of the newer additions to Garmin’s lineup of fish finders, and is one of the best, if not the best fish finder you can get in the price range. You get incredible sonar, along with a large, clear display. The 500 watts of power give you 700m of depth. You will appreciate the fact that it is a part of the Echo series, which are known among anglers to have incredible accuracy.

There’s a dual beam transducer, which uses the 77/200 kHz frequency, as well as the 50/200 kHz one. The DownVu capabilities give you an overview of the entire structure, as well as the fish underneath the boat, with near-photographic quality. This is something that none of the competitors offer, at least not at this level of quality. Even though at this point it might seem to you as a marketing gimmick, once you get used to it, you will see that it is difficult to go back to something of lower quality.

You have a 5” display, which is best suited for larger kayaks, and you can do things such as zoom in and out, there’s both vertical and horizontal viewing, and there’s even a split screen mode, which lets you look at both the down image and the broadband sonar, side by side. The resolution is 480x640px, which is plenty for a device of this caliber.

Extra features include IPX7 rating, enough to keep you safe from splashes and rain drops, Ultrascroll for moving at higher speeds, Fish Symbol ID etc. You can also rewind the sonar, to look better at some specific details. All in all, it’s a pretty complete package for a fairly compelling price.

6. Humminbird 859ci HD Fish Finder

This behemoth of a device comes with a 7-inch display, which is backlit and gives you crystal clear images. The size is enough for you to be able to notice anything you’d want to, and the colors and backlight make sure that the display stays fully visible even in direct sunlight. It is truly one of the brightest and biggest screens available. The resolution is 480x800px, which is plenty for this use, and it offers great detail on whatever is beneath the surface.

There’s a 183m depth capacity when in broadband mode, and 76m in down imaging mode. There’s a DualBeam PLUS feature, which gives you the choice between a 20 degree angle, for finding fish that might be hiding lower down, and a 60 degree beam for a wider view. You can have both views side by side, and even blend them together, in order to get a complete picture of whatever is below.

The angler will see a photo of exactly what’s underneath the boat, thanks to the Down Imaging technology, and the 2D sonar lets you locate and target fish with ease. This combination lets you leave out any guesswork when you want to catch fish.

You do get quite a few additional features. More notable are the Ethernet networking, which does require an adapter cable, as well as the three preset buttons that you can program for convenience. There are two card slots, which you can use to save maps and waypoints, and there’s a 10 Hz refresh rate with the GPS. What’s best about the Humminbird 859ci HD is that there are plenty of ways to expand it and upgrade it, and it makes sure your fishing experience is more enjoyable, and easier.

Even though far from the cheapest on this list, the price of the Humminbird 859ci is fairly decent when you factor in everything that offers. If you can afford a higher quality fish finder, and you could do with the added functionalities, by all means go for it.

7. Lowrance Elite-5x HDI Fish Finder

The Lowrance brand doesn’t need an introduction. If you’ve ever used them before, you will be familiar with how good the DownScan imaging system works, and even how good the Broadband Sounder is. Both are incredible technologies by themselves, but HDI, which stands for Hybrid Dual Imaging, is a combination of both.

There’s a power rating of 250W, and you can see as far as 305m, albeit at 50 kHz. Since most of the fish can be found much shallower than that, the Elite-5x HDI could even be overkill, which makes it the ideal solution for everything. There is a 5”, 256-color, 480x480px TFT display with fluorescent cold cathode backlighting. The display is excellent, and everything is clear and you can see everything perfectly.

The Hybrid Dual Imaging series all have the combination of a traditional SONAR, and DownScan. Since DownScan is much better and much more precise as far as structures go, and SONAR is much better in terms of spotting individual fish, the combination is more than welcome. There’s one screen which shows everything – every submerged object, thanks to DownScan, and fish, thanks you the traditional SONAR. This lets you catch fish that might be hiding inside deep cover.

These units have something which is known as the Advanced Signal Processing Technology, which is a fancy way of saying that it auto-adjusts according to the readings it is getting, and the SONAR settings themselves are adjusted automatically.

It is the GPS-free version of its more expensive brother, which is the Elite-5 HDI, which means you won’t be able to load up any maps or waypoints on it. This reflects on your price, so if you already have a chartplotter, or your budget doesn’t allow you to get something more expensive, you really can’t go wrong with the Lowrance Elite-5x.

8. Lowrance Elite-7x Fish FInder

The bigger sibling to the Elite-5x, the Lowrance Elite-7x is still one of the best standalone fish finders with CHIRP technology. A few years ago, fish finders that used CHIRP sonar tech were very expensive, and you couldn’t really count on your average fish finder having this kind of sonar. The Elite-7x was launched in April, 2014, and it maintains a very good reputation. Despite the fact that it doesn’t have any navigation included, or even compatible, you will find that it is an excellent tool, and plenty can be said about it.

As the name implies, it has a 7” screen with a resolution of 800x480px with 16-bit color and adjustable backlight. This means that it is large enough and has a resolution high enough so you can see everything clearly and in very high detail. It also gets bright for better readability when you’re in the bright sun, which is always welcome.

The sonar is a combination of broadband CHIRP and DownScan. The CHIRP sonar has a 200 kHz frequency with a 20-degree coverage, or an 83 kHz frequency with a 60 degree coverage. It has a maximum depth of 305 meters when you use it, which should be plenty. The DownScan technology goes up to 91m deep, and can either go with 455 kHz and 57 degrees, or 800 kHz and 38 degrees.

Even though the Elite-7x doesn’t have any navigation, it is widely praised for its target separation, which, due to the modulated pulse, is a lot better than the traditional sonar. You can easily distinguish between fish targets, which is great. When you factor in everything, you can see that it is a great tool that offers a lot of advanced functionality, and it works great.

9. Garmin Echo 100

There are some situations where you simply can’t, or don’t want to spend a lot of money on something. If you don’t think that you need much from your fish finder, and could settle for the basics, the Garmin Echo 100 is hard to beat. It gives you great value for your money, without sacrificing performance. It all begins with a 4” display, which has an 8-level grayscale FSTN screen with a resolution of 160x256px.

In terms of performance, the Echo 100 is part of the Echo series by Garmin, which are well known for incredible precision. There’s a single 200 kHz beam transmitter, which allows you to go as deep as 183m. The beam has 100 watts of sonar power, which is plenty for a tool of this caliber.

The size, both the physical size and the display size as well, make the Echo 100 an ideal tool for small, or maybe even mid-sized vessel. Those kinds of kayaks have a pretty limited space, and not having it be too crowded is always welcome. The Echo 100 will feel at home in such a vessel. The box pretty much has everything, from the fish finder unit itself, to a tilt and swivel mount, along with the transducer and all the cables, and instructions on how to put everything together.

As far as functionality and flashy features, it is true that the Garmin Echo 100 is limited in that regard. However, what it lacks in extras and things that many people don’t even use, it more than makes up for in efficient performance, reliability and amazing bang for your buck. At the end of the day, if you’re after something that has the basics, it’s a hard one to beat

10. NorCross HawkEye F33P

The HawkEye F33P is an excellent option for beginners. You might not know the brand, but this specific product is made incredibly well. There are a few things that might push away any experienced anglers, most notably the simplicity of use, but that is also exactly what attracts the beginners. It is very inexpensive, and made to give you readings of weeds, structure and fish, in up to 30m of depth. When you take into consideration just how small the entire thing is, this is actually quite impressive.

There’s a screen that functions somewhat differently when put next to other, more advanced fish finders. Other fish finders usually draw an image for you, and you then have to work out what everything is. The HawkEye F33P instead gives you indicators, which are basically little symbols, and they all show either structure, fish or weeds. The guesswork is done for you, which is a good thing for beginners, but this is a setting that you can’t disable, and advanced users might be bothered with it. The SONAR sensitivity can be selected at any of the four settings, but that would be about it as far as customization goes.

This interesting transducer gives you few options. You can troll it if you’re in a boat, or you can throw it in the water and float it. You can also mount it with a suction cup, or even mount it on a long rod, and get readings that are highly targeted in the direction of your choosing.

There is one potential downside for many users, though, and that is the fact that you can’t gauge what size a fish is. Other fish finders give you an estimate of how big a fish is with the kind of SONAR reading it gives you, but with the HawkEye you could be looking at anything from a small trout, to a gigantic salmon, and you won’t know until you see it with your naked eye.

The bottom line for this fish finder would be that anyone who wants a cheap and simple tool to get the basics done, can get it and forget it. However, if you’re an advanced user, you might want to look elsewhere.

What is a fish finder?

Fish finders are something that anyone who wants to go fishing in a kayak, or any other vessel for that matter, should have as their first secondary tool. They’re very useful, and you will find that they help a lot to predict fish movement. But, what is a fish finder anyways? It is basically an electronic device to help you find fish. It makes use of a transducer, which transmits ultrasonic waves and displays whatever it runs into on a monitor. The ultrasonic waves go at an (almost) constant speed of 1500 meters per second, and when they strike an object under the water, for example fish or the sea bottom, one part of the sound goes back towards the source. By calculating the time it took the wave to hit the object and go back to the transducer, the distance of the object is calculated. This is then displayed on a different level of gray scaling, if it’s a monochrome fish finder, or in one of the 16 colors, if it’s a color sounder. Or, if you want it bluntly, it gives you a graphic representation of whatever is underneath your kayak, or other vessel, thus helping you identify fish. There are plenty of reasons why you’d want one, aside from the obvious, and here are only a few of the more important ones:

• You get a precise image of both the depth and structure of the bottom of the body of water, which lets you be sure and eliminate any guess work in finding that perfect spot
• When it gets dark or windy you cant properly gauge where to cast
• Finding structure, and the flat areas, is incredibly easy

Kayak fish finders have become a common sight, and anglers will tell you that they all benefit from such devices. However choosing one finder that works well while fitting your specifications and budget is difficult. Therefore, below you will find information on things you should know about fish finders, how to choose one, as well as a couple of very popular choices among anglers throughout the world. If you don’t find one that fits, don’t be afraid, you still have plenty of options, but be sure to read through first, it might save you a lot of the guesswork.

Buyer Considerations

There are a lot of things you need to know, and depending on how you’re going to use it, the conditions you’ll be fishing in, some are more important for you than others. In no particular order, here are the key things to watch out for, when you’re looking at a kayak fish finder.

Side Imaging vs. Down Imaging

There are plenty of models that only show you what’s directly below your kayak. This is known as Down Imaging. Others also scan the side, which gives you readings of the terrain features, along the shoreline, which is known as Side Imaging. The Down Imaging transducers use a cone, with the apex being at the point of origin (more on the cones and angles below). Fish finders that make use of Side Imaging are best for fishing close to the bank. If you’re going anywhere deep, you’ll most likely be far from the coast, and Side Imaging is of absolutely no use for you.

Power

Power is pretty much the basic metric as far as fish finders go. It is very simple, a higher wattage, or higher power finder, will display readings much faster than one with low wattage. Higher power finders often have higher prices, which are something not everyone can afford, and certainly not everyone needs. You only need a high power finder if you’re going to fish in deeper waters. For shallow water fishing, even low wattage fish finders will display results fast enough for you to be able to make use of them. It all depends on how much you can afford to spend, and the conditions you’ll be fishing in. it doesn’t really make sense buying an expensive, high power finder if you’re only going to be fishing in shallow waters.

Transducers

The transducer is what actually emits ultrasonic waves, and what reads them once they reflect in order to display results, it makes sense to pay attention to this part of the fish finder. In most cases, you will find transform mount transducers when you buy the fish finder, and they’re incredibly easy to install. One important consideration is the cone angle, since a wider cone results in a wider area coverage. However, with a wider angle, deeper waters will result in reduced sensitivity; so again, it all depends on the conditions. If you’re using an in-hull or thru-hull transducer, metal hulls and fiberglass go best with plastic housing. Wood and fiberglass hulls are best suited with bronze housing, while aluminum and steel hulls go best with stainless steel housings. These are all things you need to take into consideration when shopping.

Depth, Temperature and Speed Sensors

Even if you’re a professional fisherman, reading your fish finder can be tough. So, before you spend your money, you should learn how to decipher the different icons on the screen. No matter what the cost of your fish finder, you are the one that will be responsible for reading the screen, and if you can’t do that, then the device isn’t worth buying.

So, how does a fish finder work? The sonar waves, which are emitted from the transducers bounce over the fish and return. This helps the transducer read the distance, rate and speed at which the wave travels. The transducers then convert these signals in the form of bars and arches for you to find the depth of a fish.

To find your catch, you will need to know the depth of the fish, the temperature of the water and the environment where the fish is. Most, if not all modern day fish finders are equipped with a depth sensor on the transducer, which allows you to know the depth of water under your vessel. Generally, on the top-left area of the screen, you will see the depth displayed. The depth depicted in meters is mostly accurate and depends on the model of your fish finder and its features.

In addition to this, you can also see the water temperature on your screen just below the depth reading. This is helpful if you want to target certain species of fish and know their habitats. For example, some fish prefer warm water, while others thrive in cold water. If you can read these two features, you will find it easier to find specific types of fish.

The third type of useful sensor found on your fish finder screen is the speed sensor. This is almost like a speedometer for your kayak, meaning, it shows how fast you’re moving. If you know the precise angles and the required speed for navigation, you will become a pro. Although these features seem small, they are significant.

Frequency

You can either go for dual, single or multiple frequencies. For example, dual frequency transducers usually have both 20 and 60 degree cones. The usual array of frequencies that most common transducers have is 50, 83, 192 and 200 kHz. The basic rule of thumb is that lower frequencies work better in deeper water, while higher frequencies, such as 192 or 200 kHz are better suited for shallow waters.

Screen resolution

As with any other display, the resolution here is measured in pixels. Having a higher number of pixels gives you a sharper image, and more details. There’s also more real estate on the screen, which, depending on the specific model, may allow you to fit more information on it. Any decent fish finder will have a resolution higher than 240×160, and some of the better ones go up to 640×640, which is plenty for such a screen.

Mounting space

The mounting space on your kayak will most likely dictate the format of the fish finder. What you should know is that the kayak should have enough room to hold a screen large enough to show all the details you need, as well as the cables and a 12V battery. If you have a small kayak, a 3.5” – 4” screen is enough, and if you have a larger kayak, you could go for a 5” screen as well since you’ll be able to fit it in with ease.

Weather resistance

Since you’ll be in the outdoors, having a rugged fish finder that is both water and dust resistant can be a very good thing. It is nature we’re talking about after all, and you never know what might happen while you’re out in the water. Fish finders aren’t always cheap, so you might want to have it protected.

Finder GPS

GPS is somewhat of an optional thing, but if you need it, you could always get a fish finder that comes with it, instead of having two separate devices. This depends on whether you need it and/or want one, so it’s up to you.

Installation process

Being out and about in the water, you often can’t really afford to struggle with frustrating and complicated installation processes. Investing in a finder that is easy to install makes sure you spend less time on installing it, and more on catching fish. Most finders are not built for kayaks and you have it invest in some after market kit for mounting them, there are a few options out there but a lot of us are handy since having a fishing kayak necessitates some improvisation. We will be expanding this section soon with some options for installation stay tuned.

Price range and manufacturer

Last but not least, you should always have a set budget before you go shopping, and see how many of the necessaries you can tick off without going over it. Fish finders range from fairly cheap ones, to some more expensive ones, so make sure you find one that fits your needs. If you have a higher budget, you can also afford to go for reputable manufacturers such as Raymarine, Garmin or Humminbird.

When all is said and done, choosing a finder should be as easy as seeing which conditions you’ll be fishing in, and then choosing one accordingly. If you’re going for shallow waters, for example, a low power finder with a wide cone and high frequency transducer is great.

Top 5 Brands

When you’re shopping around you will find that there are a few brands that are constantly front and center, from the cheaper models to their more expensive ones. These reputable brands are arguably the best options for anyone as far as reliability and precision goes, and you will see that most, if not all, provide a range of products for anyone’s budget. They’re all brands you can’t go wrong with, it’s only a matter of choosing which model from their respective lineups fits the bill. Here is a list of the most reputable.

1. Garmin

Garmin is a name that most people, if not all, have heard somewhere. They are a pioneer in the navigation game, and you will find their units in a number of vehicles. They also have a lineup of finders as well. There are things such as the cheap, entry level Garmin Echo 100, and there are more expensive devices, such as the Striker series, which gives you both a finder and a navigation unit. Garmin are a very reputable brand, and even though their products often come at a premium price, if you can afford it, you really can’t go wrong with them.

2. Lowrance

Lowrance is another reputable name in the finder industry. They have been around for a while, and they offer products for everyone, from recreational anglers looking to up their game, to professionals that need a tool for their job. Their HOOK series is a range of fish finders that start cheap and then offer more advanced features towards the higher end. If you want a finder/chartplotter combo, you might want to look at their HDS or Elite lines – they offer navigation features as well, and they’re made very well. It is another brand that’s pretty hard to go wrong with.

3. Humminbird

A brand that has been around for ages, and they have constantly been trying to push the industry forward. They have an extensive range of devices, from their ICE series that’s specially made for fishing in extremely cold conditions, through the PirahnaMAX series for smaller vessels, all the way to the HELIX lineup which comes with many advanced features. You pretty much have a fish finder for any purpose, and within any price range, you just have to choose one.

4. Raymarine

Raymarine, a part of FLIR systems, is a manufacturer which makes both recreational, as well as light commercial-targeted products. They have a range of products, from GPS chartplotters, to digital finders, self-steering gear etc. As far as fish finders go, they’re most famous for the Dragonfly series, which offer sonars with advanced features, and let you spend more time catching fish instead of looking for them.

5. Marcum

Marcum is a brand that is driven by military-grade engineering. They make some of the best ice sonar systems in the world. They have a range that goes for everyone, from beginning anglers to professional tournament anglers – everyone will be able to find one for them.

Wrapping things up

When you’re looking at a fish finder, there are plenty of things that you should know, and making a decision can be difficult. However, there are a few basic rules of thumb that you should follow, and which will help you not to make a mistake. First of all, you should always know the exact application that you’ll be using your finder for. Shallow water or deep water? Close to the shoreline, or further away? There are different finders for different uses, and it’s easy to make a mistake.

However, here in this guide you have a detailed description of everything you need to be looking at, in order to choose exactly what you need. There are also ten of the best possible finders that you will find on the market today, and they’re all hard to go wrong with. Which one is your favorite?

“A real kayak doesn’t need a rudder”, “Kayak makers add rudders to compensate for design flaws” and such statements are only a few of the many things you’ll hear in a debate about kayak rudders which has been going on for decades. Certain kayakers are considering themselves purists, and, even though they will acknowledge the benefit of using a skeg which is retractable, they have a solid “no” when rudders are being considered. Skegs, unlike rudders, are a non-turning fin usually located near the stern, and it helps improve tracking in some conditions, such as with rockered kayaks, off-the-wind legs and quartering seas.

If you’re a beginner and you start asking yourself whether you need a rudder, the first question you should get answered is what is a rudder, and what does it do? The term by itself, rudder, will have you thinking of a device that steers the boat. Even though this would be correct, rudders are instead usually used to keep the kayak on a straight path, rather than helping it turn. However, there’s much more than “a part that keeps the kayak going straight”, so let’s dive into the details and see what parts the rudder is composed of, how do they work, their pros and cons, as well as those of a skeg, and will you need or want one for your kayaking experience.

What Parts Does a Rudder Consist Of?

When you’re in open water, you will notice that the wind, waves and currents will try to push your kayak around, altering your path and direction. To combat this, a rudder blade is used, and it acts in many ways similar to the feathers of an arrow that allow it to fly straight. The rudder is a blade located at the stern of the kayak, and is made in such a way that it pivots from side to side, and that is controlled by foot pedals in the kayak’s cockpit. Those foot pedals are connected by cables, usually made of stainless steel, or made from super-strong cordage materials, such as Spectra. In order to turn the rudder, you push on one of the pedals, on the side you want to veer towards, and you relieve the pressure on the other pedal.

This action turns the rudder blade and compensates for the wind or wave or currents’ attempt to try and steer you away.

Another important thing that most of the rudders available today usually employ is a so-called lift line. This allows the paddler to deploy the rudder, as well as pull it back inside the stern, and all this while he or she is sitting in the cockpit. While you might think that this is nothing more than a gimmick, you will find that it’s actually very useful when you’re landing or launching, and especially when you’re crossing shallows which would otherwise hit the rudder and either damage it or break it off completely. The lift line is usually a long loop which is knotted near the cockpit. There are a few knots, and the one to pull is always the one which is farthest back, and this is important to remember because the knots change their position each time you raise or lower the rudder. You should also remember that the rudder may come with a keeper cord, which is meant to lock the rudder down to the deck for storage and transportation, and this should be off before you launch. This option of the rudders to be lifted or lowered also means that when you have any kind of submerged obstacle, the rudder can lift itself over it when you’re going in a forward direction. Keep in mind that this can’t happen when you’re going in a reverse direction. Some kayaks, however, such as surf skis, will come with a through-hull rudder. This is mounted close to the stern, and not at the far end, and protrudes from the bottom of the hull. The cables are on the top of the back deck and usually concealed with a cover plate. What you should know is that this kind of rudder can’t be raised and lowered, and you should take special care when in shallow waters, as well as when you’re launching and landing.

The last part of the rudder are the foot control pedals.

They usually consist of a foot peg, which is mounted on a rail with graduated slots in order for you to be able to adjust the pegs. This allows for a variety of leg lengths to be able to fit. That rail is mounted on a track which lets both the foot peg, and the rail, slide forward and back and pull the cable. To make the rudder turn, one peg goes forward and the other one goes back, as mentioned above. This system of movement has one fundamental issue, and that is that it requires the paddler to bend, and then straighten the legs,

which affects the paddler’s grip and fit on the kayak. If you’re paddling in a sit-on kayak, you will feel your knee straps getting loose, and if you’re paddling in a sit-in kayak, you will notice less contact with thigh brace pads. All in all, both types of paddlers will inevitably feel a decrease in control over their kayak, as well as the ability to lean and brace. This is one of the key factors when looking at rudders, and has a lot of paddlers avoiding rudders due to the fact that a loss of lean control can lead to a tip over, which is a problem for the paddler. This problem, however, has actually been solved, as we’re seeing more and more kayaks being equipped with toe-control foot pegs which means that you only need to move your toes and not the whole legs, thus maintaining your control over the kayak.

How does a kayak rudder work?

The mechanics of a kayak rudder are very simple. The foot pegs pull or release the cable, thus making the rudder turn on one side or the other, depending on which peg you’re pushing on, and which one you’re releasing. However, there’s a little more to it than just the pushing and pulling. When you turn the rudder on one side, you create more drag on that side of the kayak, and consequently you slow the side down. The other side maintains its speed. This causes the kayak to turn towards the slow side, and compensate for the change of direction caused by either winds, or currents, or waves. While this kind of “steering” is easy, you will notice that it consumes a big part of your hard-earned, forward-moving momentum, and requires more strength and paddling to get to where you’re going. A good comparison would be power steering in your car, it draws some power from the engine in order for you to not have to muscle the steering wheel, but you will get less miles per gallon. Another reason why this is a good comparison is that, like power steering, you will find that loss of strength to be a well-worth tradeoff, especially when you consider the benefits.

The rudder itself is a fairly new innovation, as the originators of the kayak, the Inuits, didn’t use rudders. As mentioned earlier, there is a significant number of paddlers that go along with the simplicity of going rudderless, and prefer saving some strength that would otherwise be wasted on drag when the rudder is in the water. And, even though most kayaks don’t actually need a rudder, and proper paddling strokes can provide more control than you need, it is a fact that having one can be of great assistance in many situations. You will find that a lot of today’s commercially available kayaks come with a rudder option, or have a rudder included in the standard package, while some come with a skeg. The skeg is an interesting alternative to those who prefer going rudderless, as it helps keep the kayak on a straight course as well.

What are the pros and cons of a rudder, and what are those of a skeg?

If you find yourself at this point where you need to get a rudder, you will undoubtedly have certain paddlers, those mentioned at the beginning, that will either try to steer you away completely from such a solution, or get you to use a skeg instead of a rudder. In order for you to be able to make the final decision on your own, here are the most important pros and cons of both rudders and skegs, and hopefully they will help you decide what works best for you. We’ll start with the rudders first.

Rudder-

               Pros:

• They make the kayak much easier to control, it requires much less edging in order to maintain the course, and it’s a lot easier to turn the entire kayak.
• A rudder will give you more space in the stern compartment of your kayak.
• Many rudders can be pulled up and made retractable
• When surfing, you get much more control, as the rudder does the steering, and not the paddle.

               Cons:

• They cost more than a skeg to find and install.
• Rudders come with a lot of moving parts, and losing one of them, such as a nut or a screw, and you’re left to rely completely on your skill. Even worse, you might have to fight a rudder you have absolutely no control over, which can be very bad depending on the conditions.
• When stowed, they might act as a small sail and provide drag.
• If you forget to unlock the keeper cord, you will need another paddler to do that for you once you’re inside the cockpit.
• Can be easily damaged and if struck while moving backwards, they’re very susceptible to damage.

A skeg, unlike the rudder, is a fixed blade which is found at the bottom of the hull, usually behind the cockpit. Skegs can also be deployed using a control cable and actuator, and they’re usually added to a kayak in order to compensate for poor trim or give some newer paddlers added assistance. A skilled paddler, however, can compensate for the stern being pushed sideways by deploying a skeg, because the skeg itself adds a lot of resistance to the sideways motion. Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of such a system.

Skeg-

               Pros:

• Less moving parts and connection points than a rudder.
• When stowed, it doesn’t affect the wind.
• No muscle groups are required to steer.
• If you strike something, they usually fold in the skeg box.
• They’re cheaper to install.

               Cons:

• They don’t provide any yaw control.
• Skegs take up too much space in the storage compartment.
• A skeg box will create more drag than a clean hull.
• They’re not good for novice paddlers as they require skill in order to be able to turn and control the kayak.
• Rocks and pebbles may jam them if you drag the kayak down the beach.
• They’re easily damaged if something strikes them sideways.

Aftermarket Kayak Rudder/Skeg Options

There are a few options out there for people that already have a rudderless kayak and want to install their own. Usually these do require some installation so you can do one of two things, pay a professional handyman or do it yourself. There are a few reputable brands out there and kits that offer a clean install, these include sets from Pygmy, Kayak Sports, Sealine, , Wildwasser, Feathercraft, Mirage and Ocean kayak as well as other less known brands. A final option is creating your own, this is usually much easier with skegs, with rudders you may battle a bit since you have to include the moving parts of the foot pedals for rotating the skeg.

Here are some options of universal kayak rudders if your in the market off amazon.

FYI: Alot of different kayak models such as Hobie, Native Watercraft, Ocean have their own rudder kit designed specially for your kayak.

Hobie Kayak Rudder, Watercraft Rudder, Ocean Kayak Rudder, Advanced Elements Skeg, Seyvlor Skeg, Wilderness Systems Rudder Kit

Aftermarket Tracking Fin

Another option if you don’t want the retractable option and are looking for something fixed or easy to install is the tracking fin. These can be easily mounted on the bottom of your kayak and will make your kayak track totally straight like a flat water boat. This is definitely the cheaper option for a kayak and is great for fisherman that know the turmoils of having their boats face the wrong way! The one downside of a tracking fin is that once its mounted its there forever and can cause some issues with storage and dragging the kayak into the water if your launching from an awkward position, but the trade-off is easy installation and great tracking.

Here are some options of tracking fins if your in the market off amazon.

Lanyar Kayak Skeg Tracking Fin
Material: PVC
Removable: Yes
Dimensions: 2 x 7 x 8.5 inches
Weight: .7 lbs
This skeg received 3.5 stars on amazon. The main benefit of this skeg is that it allows you to take it off at a moments notice.

Hanperal Kayak Skeg Tracking Fin
Material: PVC
Removable: Yes
Dimensions: 2 x 7.9 x 8.5 inches
Weight: 1 lbs
This skeg received 4.5 stars which was the highest among all the skegs reviewed, although it is a larger skeg it is more durable then the others improving tracking to a large extent and alsoo having the added benefit of being removable.

Conclusion: do you want, or need one?

While rudders are undoubtedly of great assistance in a number of situations, you will find that whether you need one usually depends on what kind of kayak you use, how you use it and in what conditions. Other factors that may affect this decision are your skill, and last but not least, your personal preference. If you’re paddling on open water, where you’re usually exposed to both wind and waves, you will most likely want a rudder to help you with keeping your direction.

If you have a longer kayak, a rudder is very likely to come as a standard piece of equipment, as longer kayaks require much more skills for you to be able to paddle them and a rudder is a good thing to help you with this. However, if you invest much more time in learning the paddle strokes, as well as improving your skills, chances are you might not need a rudder after all. The best thing to do is to check in real-life conditions, both with and without a rudder, and decide for yourself whether you can use one and if it helps you in what you need it for. At the end of the day, it’s your hard-earned money that buys the rudder.

How To Create Your Own Kayak Rudder and Skeg Resources

Instructables Make your Own Kayak Rudder Step Guide – http://www.instructables.com/id/Kayak-rudder/
Make a Kayak Rudder Paul Larsen Youtube Guide – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nsk6ydMnGrA
Written Do It Yourself Rudder Guide From Trails (No Pictures) – https://www.trails.com/how_12710_do-yourself-kayak-rudder.html

Kayak seats are an essential part of the comfort and mobility of a kayak and their value is sometimes greatly underestimated. If the kayak seat you use doesn’t fit you, is made of low-quality materials, or the construction isn’t very well made, there is no cockpit big enough and comfortable enough to save you. You will have issues, and serious ones, and you will make kayaking, which should be enjoyable, a pain and struggle. Here we have put together a guide that will help you choose the perfect and most comfortable seat for you as well as help you learn what really goes into making the best kayak seat.

Kayakerguide is providing kayak recommendations using research from only the best hand chosen sources and veteran kayak testers who refuse to display only but the best in kayaking choice and journalism. Let us know what you think so far and sign up to be notified when we publish a new guide or article.

Materials

A kayaks seats material is an important factor in stringing together its structure by providing comfort, breath-ability and durability. The material a kayak seat is made of is essential in providing a high quality seat that will last and keep you happy on the water.

Neoprene Fabric

(4.5/5)

This is a type of synthetic rubber that is created through a process called polymerization of chloroprene. The material has good stability and flexibility in different temperatures and is usually sold in a rubber or latex form its most popular applications are, knee braces, fan belts and laptop sleeves.

Molded Foam/ Layered

(4/5)

This is a product created from different soft foam compounds usually a general category for other types of foams it is created from a process called direct injection expanded foam molding. Once the process is done a nice soft molded foam is created in the form you wish.

EVA Foam

(4/5)

EVA also known as Ethylene Vinyl Acetate is a foam that’s used in different forms of padding such as hockey pads and boxing and martial arts gloves. It is a lightweight foam with strong and durable properties.

Polyester

(5/5)

Polyester is a fabric that is extremely small its defined as “long-chain polymers composed chemically of 85% weight of ester and a dihydric alcohol and terephalic acid” These fabrics are extremely strong and are usually used for making outdoor clothes for extremely harsh climates. **Though not used to create the entire kayak seat this is usually layered over.

Tekpad® Fluid Gel Airflow 3D

(5/5)

This ones a bit of a mystery to us, the fluid gel is in reference to a gel padded seat. This one is a material directly from the creators at Skwoosh, is has been said to be one of the more comfortable seat materials on the market.

How do you choose a good kayak seat?

Even though there are some kayaks that come with their own seats and practically no way of modifying them, most of them actually give you the freedom of buying another seat and switching it in. That is completely up to the manufacturer of the kayak, but advanced paddlers and people who know what they’re looking for will make sure to have this as an option, mostly because the original seat doesn’t really fit them that well, or they want a higher performance one.

Comfort

This is hands down the most important thing. If a seat isn’t comfortable, don’t buy it, it’s as simple as that. Comfort depends on a number of factors, and you should keep all of them in mind when purchasing. You can also try to see if you can test-drive a seat before purchasing it, as there are some dealers that have demo days where you can test their equipment. This is important because no matter how comfortable a seat may look, you will never know unless you try it. When looking at the comfort, make sure that you feel good for a long period of time this can be difficult to gauge on the first sitting, and always look for additional lumbar support – you can never have too much of it.

Padding and cushioning

The second important factor when deciding on the best kayak seat will undoubtedly be the padding, as well as cushioning. These are both key factors when discussing comfort and performance due to several reasons.

First, enough padding will keep you warm and not allow your legs to freeze, and there’s also some comfort here as well.

Second, a well-cushioned seat will make you feel comfortable. However, not only the amount of cushioning is important, but the positioning as well. It won’t do any good if the cushioning is in the wrong place and doesn’t provide comfort where it’s needed.

Kayak Seat Stability

This is also a crucial factor, especially for kayak anglers. A good seat should offer stability and not allow you to wiggle around in the cockpit as this will be a performance hit and will also increase your chances of flipping over, more so if you’re in whitewater rapids. Stability gets even more important when you’re using your kayak for fishing. Having a seat that will allow you to sit comfortably and not affect your focus on casting and fishing is ideal as even the smallest instability could lead you to end up in the water.

Durability and quality

This might affect you if you use your kayak often, or if you’d rather buy one seat and forget it as long as it fits you. Most of the seats you will find are built with durability in mind, but there are some strange ones here and there that might lose their performance or completely fall apart after using them for extended periods of time. Therefore, if you consider yourself a frequent paddler, you should have durability and quality of build as some of the more important factors in consideration, as they may quite literally make or break a kayak seat for you, and let’s face it, who wants to go out and have to buy a new one every other month?

Storage

Even though many people don’t really need this since their kayak already comes with quick access storage, having extra storage in your kayak is never a bad thing. Keep in mind, however, that due to the size of the kayak seat itself, what you will get in terms of additional storage is not much, but it should be enough to let you store your essentials. This is also very useful if you’re fishing, as you can keep things you need quickly here, such as bait.

Price

Possibly the deciding factor for many, price is something that you won’t be able to neglect. An average price for a decent kayak seat should be around $60. However, if that is outside of your budget, there are also several more basic options that can be bought for less, and if you can afford a more expensive one, you will undoubtedly find higher levels of ergonomics in the more expensive seats. A basic rule of thumb would be that you get what you pay for, but when debating kayak seats, there is usually something available for everyone, at different price points.

What To Avoid When Buying A Kayak Seat?

Even though not that obvious, a bad seat can lead to a myriad of problems, here are a few things to keep your eye out when buying:

Avoiding Physical pain, pain has taken away a few potential kayakers and beginners without them knowing that the true problem here was usually a poorly designed or cheap seat.

The comfort a seat offers is going to vary, and it depends a lot on things such as the material thats used to make the seat, the construction of the seat itself, as well as the padding of the seat. We recommend you use a heavy duty material and seat padding that’s not too thin to make sure you get a high level of support.

Avoiding Overheating and Sweating, there are some materials that can cause you to sweat a lot because of their lack of breath-ability, and there are some that are simply uncomfortable because they don’t stretch enough, or they stretch too much, or they’re too hard on your skin. A material that’s not right for you could drive you crazy over time if your a daily kayaker, this is why its important to make sure you pay that little extra for a seat that is a bit more padded and uses a higher quality build.

Avoid Bad construction can also be a deal-breaker, as a seat that is too stiff will most likely be uncomfortable for most kayakers, and the problem persists with seats that are too soft and wobbly. Another issue we have seen brought up by kayakers is uncomfortable cushion construction with grooves that just don’t match up with you and may dig into you over time.

The last on the list, bad padding, is another big factor. Lack of padding on both the bottom and back will mean that you’re basically sitting in the kayak’s body, and not on your seat, which isn’t comfortable by any means, especially if you’re going over whitewater rapids. Make sure you can gauge the thickness of the padding and if its gel the sensitivity on the gel in relation to your weight.

Reputable Seat Brands to Keep An Eye Out For

As with almost anything that you can buy, there are certain brands that stand out for a particular reason. For kayak seats, the brands mentioned below either offer amazing comfort and performance, or offer a number of features at a low price, but there are certainly reasons why they made this list. If you’ve decided that you truly want an aftermarket kayak seat, but you aren’t sure which brand to go for, this list would be a good starting point.

1. Ocean Kayak

Ocean Kayak is a brand that actually comes with a large range of products. They have everything, from complete kayaks, to accessories such as seats, hatch kits, rudder kits, clothing, paddles, life jackets, you name it. They offer products at various price ranges, each with its advantages and disadvantages. A good example from them would be the Comfort Plus seat back, which is designed for sit-on-top kayaks. As its name suggests, the seat provides excellent comfort with the padded back. The nylon cloth construction is also there to guarantee durability even after longer usage. There are 4-way mounting straps which are adjustable and let you adjust how you sit in the saddle, for maximum comfort. There’s also a reflective logo with high visibility, as a safety measure.

2. Malibu Kayaks

Malibu Kayaks have been around since 1999, and they’re in the game to design and offer high-quality kayaks and accessories, which are also affordable in order to satisfy both hardcore enthusiasts, and recreational paddlers too. Their best offer is the Spider Angler seat, which is especially built for anglers and makes sure that you feel better and more comfortable while fishing. It’s designed so it can be used on sit-on-top kayaks to maximize your pleasure while fishing. The high back, combined with a thick padding, will ensure that you’re comfortable no matter how long you’re in the water. There is also a rear gear bag, that allows you to store some small essentials, as well as built-in rod holders and tool holders. Also, not to be forgotten, there are D-rings that let you attach additional gear to it.

3. Surf to Summit

Surf to Summit specialize in kayaking gear, and not complete kayaks, as well as gear for other sports. Their inspiration to build seats came from the fact that back when they started, kayakers used to sit on a block of foam, and that was if they were lucky. They offer plenty of choice, both for sit-on-top kayaks and closed-cockpit ones as well. Their seats are made for touring, kayak fishing, whitewater rapids or recreational paddling – they have something for everyone. Their most popular options are the GTS series’ Sport and Elite, which are both made for sit-on-top kayaks. The Sport is the smaller of the two, but both have advanced contouring which ensure that you’re as comfortable as possible, and provide enough lumbar support for anyone. The construction is also made with durability in mind, especially at high stress points.

4. Skwoosh

Skwoosh is another company that offers seats for plenty of things, such as kayaks, motorcycles, office chair accessories, car seat accessories etc. Their technology relies on a patented, medically proven gel, which is then combined with high-tech fabrics. Every product of theirs has welded seams, non-skid bottoms, as well as a lightweight, fold-able, low-profile design. Their best offer is the Big Catch High Back seat, which comes with unrivaled lumbar support and cushioning. The seat uses technologies that ensure it’s cool, comfortable, and firm, and all at levels that give you superior pressure alleviation and comfort. There are also modifiable side wings that give more back support, and will go well with your body shape for a comfortable experience. The reinforced fiberglass battens will give you more stability and enhanced performance.

5. Kerco

One more brand that doesn’t really stick to kayaks, but instead offers seats for them (as well as some other accessories for other categories), also has several models that are made to suit a variety of people and a variety of environments. A perfect example is the simply called Kerco Sit-On-Top Kayak seat back, which is designed for sit-on-top kayaks, and made to offer support and comfort during long paddle trips. The cushion is made with molded foam, and has a nylon exterior, which provides a plus, durable seat that will last you for years. You also get ample back support, relieving you of any back pain and strain while you’re out on the water.

Benefits of a good kayak seat

Even though the benefits should be quite obvious, there are actually a lot of variables to a good seat. If you’re a paddler, by now you know that the kayak you use should fit you first, and then anyone else that may be using it, this may sound selfish but your going to be the one using it. There is an exception to this rule, and that’s when you have a tandem kayak – in which case you need to be considerate of the other paddler. A kayak’s comfort is a combination of multiple things, including your size, the cockpit size, and the seat you’re using. Your size isn’t something that you can change, and the cockpit size is most likely already decided on. However the kayak seat is a variable that can be changed for maximum benefit.

Comfort

By now you’ve probably concluded that comfort is the primary thing that a seat offers. This may not make much difference to someone who doesn’t spend too much time in their kayak, but for advanced paddlers and those who want to go for hours, this becomes very important. Being uncomfortable in your kayak has much more of an impact than you’d think.

Support

The other important thing about kayak seats is the support they’re able to offer. A well-made, high quality seat will give you excellent lumbar support, which is very important if you want to avoid back issues, both now and in the future, and let the lower back do its job, pain-free. Lumbar support will target the lower back, at the point where your spine curves inward in a natural way.

A good seat will provide an adequate support cushion, and help maintain the curve of your back, as well as the muscles that are surrounding it. This is crucial, especially for paddlers that sit for long periods of time, on a regular basis, because the human body isn’t actually designed for long periods of sitting. If, however, a seat fails to provide this kind of support, it doesn’t only damage your back muscles, but the spine as well.

Read More on the dangers of bad lumbar support

Lower lumbar damage can lead to stiffness and pain, which isn’t something any of us would like to deal with, especially when you take into consideration the fact that this can lead to much more serious issues, such as walking difficulties, and even paralysis in the worst case. Taking care of this isn’t something that should be avoided. It is rather like regular healthy habits such as quitting smoking, or brushing your teeth – you can never start too soon. If you’re a younger, more agile person, this might not be much of a problem at the moment, but it will definitely be in the future, and it isn’t something you’d like to be having issues with.

To better understand why this is so important while kayaking, you need to know what happens when you’re paddling. The traditional paddling technique is based on rotation of the torso which is initiated from your hips. This is a motion that is impossible to perform if you’re leaned towards the back, and can be best done if you’re sitting straight, or even better, leaning forward slightly.

This combination of leaning and continuously, repetitively rotating, puts a lot of stress on the lower part of your spine, which is also known as the lumbar spine. This happens due to the fact that it has to support your body, even when you’re rotating. To make matters even worse, while your lumbar spine is constantly rotating, your legs compress it against your seat’s backrest. This is actually how your paddling effort is transmitted from the paddle, through the body, and to the kayak, in order to propel it forward through the water. This force, which is by no means inconsiderable, is constantly applied to the lower spine, and that by itself is a pretty vulnerable area as it has no other bones to either support it or protect it. This is exactly why having a seat that reduces as much stress as possible from those areas, and provides enough support.

Performance

Yes, you’ve heard that right. Performance isn’t all about the body of the kayak, or the paddle you’re using. The seat has quite an impact on this as well, because even if your technique is good, and the paddle and kayak are great, your performance will suffer a loss if your paddling strength isn’t transferred to the kayak’s body entirely. This can be due to a seat being too soft, be it in the construction or the materials used. A well-thought-out seat, and a well-made one, will allow you to transfer your strength from the water to the kayak with minimal loss, which is very important if you want to achieve higher speeds and maintain them.

Another big performance factor is being able to move the kayak with your body. This is especially important in whitewater rapids, where you have a smaller kayak with a tight fit, and you need to use your hips and legs to maneuver it. Having a seat that doesn’t do its job in this situation will lead to a drop in performance, and you might even hurt yourself unintentionally. Due to this, it’s very important that your seat has enough stiffness for strength transfer, and not too much, for comfort.

Final Words

When you consider everything, getting the best kayak seat is by no means a simple task. There are plenty of variables to consider, and most, if not all, can make or break your kayaking experience. By far the most important thing is comfort, and this can lead to more issues if not addressed in time. This should be your primary criteria when you’re buying a seat, and one you should never neglect in order to get a cheaper, or a seat with more storage. There are compromises that might need to be made, and if you’ve read all of the above, you should have a clear image of where you can let go of some things, and what you should always strive for before you purchase. Additional features such as ventilation or rod holders might sound attractive, but why have a rod holder when your seat is so uncomfortable you can’t even spend enough time in the water to be able to fish?

Before going out and buying a seat, do a bit of research. See what price range you’re looking at, according to your budget, and see what you can get in that price range. Then, try to read some reviews on the seats you can choose from. And last but not least, always see if you can get your dealer at their demo day to give you some of the seats you’re considering for a test ride – you can’t go wrong if you’ve tried the seat, can you?